Košice

Say koh-SHEET-seh! Evidence of human activity has been found here from the end of the Paleolithic era. It has never been very large, but it has been an important stop on trade routes between Poland and Hungary. In 1369 it became the first town in Europe to be granted its own coat of arms, and the largest cathedral in the Kingdom of Hungary, to which it belonged through most of its written history. Following World War I, Czechoslovakia was established from the break-up of Austria-Hungary, and in December 1992, Slovakia separated itself to become its own republic.

Slovakia’s second largest city is much, much smaller than Hungary’s capital. Our pace can slow down significantly here, and we may not stick to the proposed itineraries. Košice has few tourist attractions, but its primary appeal is its pleasant main street (Hlavná), lined with fountains, historic buildings, and restaurants. It has the romance and charm of an old medieval European city centre, without the price tag. One of the best things to do here is find a seat by the singing fountain or at one of the restaurants along the main street and just watch people and listen to the ambient hum. 

Day 13 - Central Košice

Today we’ll explore some of the centre of the old city. We’ll be able to keep a leisurely pace; it’s not a large area, and many of these points are outdoor, walk-by stops.

Immaculata - Plague monument Erected in 1723 in gratitude to Mary for the end of the 1709-10 plague.

Virgin Mary Dominican Church and market. The church's exterior isn't grand or opulent, but the interior is extravagantly decorated and worth seeing. Next to the church is a farmer's market. Stalls sell mainly produce and flowers. I've bought some of the best peaches I've ever had here!

Košice State Theatre, completed in 1899. No programs during summer, unfortunately; the interior is beautiful!

Singing fountain & chimes. A shady gathering place for everyone, right in front of the theatre. We spend a lot of time here, listening to the water and watching people.

Mikluš Prison & Rodošto House. The two adjoining houses at the corner of Hrnčiarska and Pri Miklušovej väznici were originally built as residences in the 14th century, then rebuilt to be the prison in the early 17th century. The house across the street from it is a memorial to a Hungarian anti-Hapsburg leader who was exiled to Turkey. A $12 ticket gives you entry to both.

Crafts Alley, Hrnčiarska street. There aren’t many left, but this used to be the place for local artisans to set up their shops. The street is still very pretty, and we should definitely take a walk down the short length of it to see what’s still there. I remember a pottery shop, a metalwork shop, and a leather shop, in particular. There are several cafés that have taken some of the places of the shops that have closed.

East Slovak Museum. Entry fee of $12 includes a visit to the wooden church nearby. In the past, only Catholic churches were allowed to be built out of stone. You can find many old wooden Lutheran or Orthodox churches like this one around the country.

This whole route will take us until early or mid-afternoon. We can stop for a snack or lunch at the end, or somewhere in the middle. 

For the rest of the afternoon, you can enjoy one of the optional extras from the list on the Košice Information page.